Consign them to Great Collections or David Lawrence with a reserve bid and zero buyback fees (there may be a $5,000 minimum to receive these perks but you will need to contact the firms for details). You will thus net at least your minimum requested (the hammer price) and might garner even more. You never know what will happen when two billionaires get into a bidding war.
Both are highly reputable companies. Each has tens of thousands of loyal customers. Both will post good photographs, unlike certain other auction companies. And treat you fairly, unlike certain other auction companies.
It's that simple. No worries, no losses, no aggravation. Be patient because it may take a while to sell your coins. But the end result is definitely worth it.
Comments
While some consignors are nervous consigning coins at no reserve, reserves tend to diminish bidder interest, enthusiasm and bids. On the other hand, unreserved coins attract far more interest and bidding activity, often resulting in higher, not lower, prices.
Reserves can also give potential buyers the impression that the reserve amount is an aggressive high price, beyond which it would be unwise to bid. But bidders might bid much higher than that same amount if it’s not set as a reserve.
I know of numerous multi-million dollar consignments from highly knowledgeable collectors, which have been sold at no reserve. And overall, those sales have brought very strong prices, with record prices in numerous instances.
EVERYTHING Feld said is true.
You don't have to have a multimillion dollar consignment to be successful. A good auction company will talk to you and work with you-not just take your coins and out them in an internet only sale. I think the threads originator may have had good luck once. Overall, it does not work that way.
I think in terms of reserve/no reserve it depends a lot on the coin or series in question. Some markets are robust and you can generally feel good about getting a fair price and no reserve has very little downside. Some series are thinly traded. Also is one selling a couple coins or an entire set all at once? A good example of a thinly traded series is high grade clad dimes. I wouldn't ever sell a lone clad coin or two on GC no reserve (I've got burned trying), but if one had an entire set to consign (as in the recently sold Erasmus Hall collection) it drew a lot of interest and some pretty strong prices.
Not everyone is a multimillionaire who can afford to tie up huge sums in coins for long periods. Nor is every potential seller sophisticated about how to buy coins at or near wholesale levels. They can get buried at full retail.
One large auction firm would not allow me to send a $500,000 consignment without first listing the coins and getting approval in advance for my zero-buyback reserves. That precaution is understandable but way too much work for someone as lazy as I am. If I need to go to that much trouble, I will list the coins myself on my company's websites and get the full prices needed, which I did to some extent (I have probably sold more than half of that group of unusual coins since).
I repeat, for most folks, Great Collections and David Lawrence are the way to go because you cannot beat zero-buyback reserves, which guarantees that you can break even if you paid full retail. GC is now number three in sales volume and fast approaching number two. There must be a reason(s).
Consigning coins with no reserve is like playing cards in Vegas. Of course auction firms encourage it because they want their commissions no matter what.
Notice that the two other comments were posted by representatives of their respective auction houses. I have no horse in this race. I am just trying to help people who paid full retail for their coins and want to bail out. Or anyone else who just wants to get a decent price for every single item.
The two recommended companies have an excellent track record for getting top dollar for ANY coins, not just the cream. Almost everything will eventually sell, especially CAC coins, provided that you are not seeking Rolls-Royce prices for mere Ford Focuses.
I find it interesting that you have criticized several of my comments. Yet, why do I own a successful retail coin business yet you work for someone else for blue collar wages (I know exactly how much you guys earn, as per ex-employees)? I am not in any way condemning you because you do work for a living (I only chastise welfare-mooching freeloaders). But if you are so much smarter than I am and have all of the answers, why am I earning far more than you are?
I truly believe that every coin and every situation is different. Its tough to make blanket statements about selling coins in a specific manner that will yield "top dollar".
I didn’t say that I was smarter than you or that I have all the answers.
You have no idea what my wages are and they’re entirely irrelevant. I work for Heritage because I choose to and I’ve worked for some other excellent companies during my career, as well.
Yes, representatives from two auction houses have responded in this thread. We each have a substantial amount of experience, both in buying in auctions and working with consignors.
My own experiences refute your claims, as do those of numerous yelpers and Google Review posters. And my own customers!
And your wages are relevant if you are earning considerably less than I am yet disagreeing with my comments about how to actually sell coins, not just tout theories. Then again, I am a RETAILER yet you are a member of the hardcore coin dealer subculture, so I can totally see why we disagree. We are from completely different universes.
Obviously, there are no such formal studies. But you have no proof to support your contrary claim, either.